Feb 8, 2013

California

      Imagine stunning beaches, huge forests, a ski mountain over a gorgeous alpine lake, great wineries… This is California! One of my favorite places in the world!
  In this post I'll share my impressions and tips about a recent trip I've made. Unfortunately I didn't go to famous parks as Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon and Death Valley… You should rent a car and drive south along the Pacific Coast (Highway 1). I'll start in San Francisco, as it has the biggest airport in the northern California.


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San Francisco
3 to 4 nights
Pick a hotel close to Union Square, the heart of San Francisco's shopping, performing arts and hotel industries. My husband and I stayed at Grand Hyatt and recommend it (but we had dinner one night at the Velvet Room, inside a great boutique hotel called Clift, and we'll definitely stay there next time).
Reserve one night to explore the French district, the area between Belden Place and Claude Lane, and have dinner at Gitane, an amazing Spanish restaurant (order the jamón iberico de bellota, La Serena cheese and the duck, you won't regret!).
Have breakfast at Mama's- in North Beach, the Italian district. It is known as the best breakfast in town. But it is really crowded, no reservations, so arrive before 9am if you don't wanna spend 2 hours in line…
In another day have brunch at Brenda's French Soul Food (Harry's tip)
Cable car (Powell- Hyde) to Fisherman's Wharf, passing by the iconic Lombard Street (originally constructed in 1922 to reduce the hill's natural grade). Carolina Grinberg rented bikes at the wharf and crossed the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito (it's all downhill to go, so she advises to take the ferry back). Take a look at the picture of Alcatraz and the cable car going up the hill. It was taken in the corner of Hyde x Lombard!
Pier 39 and Ghirardelli Square. A famous sightseeing point, with lots of tourists, chocolate shops, nice restaurants, always crowded.
Alcatraz- Civil War fortress, infamous federal prison, bird sanctuary, first lighthouse on the West Coast, and the birthplace of the American Indian Red Power movement are a few of the stories of the Rock.
Coit Tower- the 210-foot tower was completed in 1933 to honor San Francisco's volunteer firemen, offers spectacular panoramic views of the city.
SOMA (South of Market St)- is a new district. Harry recommends walking from Pier 40 to Ferry Building. You can rent bikes at Pier 40 as well. His favorite restaurant is The Slanter Door, a Vietnamese and French Fusion cuisine.
Hayes Valley - fashionable district with cute shops between Gough and Laguna Streets. Close to San Francisco Opera.
Haight Ashbury - counterculture home
Mission District - a picturesque neighborhood, filled with murals (Precita Eyes Muralists offers a walking tour) and the best bakery in town, Tartine Bakery. Valencia Street is the heart of San Francisco nightlife.
Conservatory of Flowers - at the Golden Gate Park (a nice park to go on Sundays), it is the oldest wood and glass conservatory in North America. Don't miss it if you enjoy gardening. But be prepared to ruin your hair inside it!
Crissy Field - the northwestern tip is home to the national park Fort Point and the most fantastic view of Golden Gate Bridge.
Chinatown - Sorry, I didn't go…. every big city has one and it is always a mess! Not a big fan!

Half-Day trip to Sausalito - a charming waterside village. Just after you cross the Golden Gate Bridge pull over on the right at Vista Point, a scenic viewpoint. Then head to Marin Headlands to be amazed by the views of the bay and Golden Gate Bridge. Enjoy Rodeo Beach. Have lunch at the phenomenal Japanese Sushi Ran (the best glazed black cod followed by the best green tea / ginger ice cream I've ever had) or a sangria at Bocce, a lovely restaurant with a fireplace with water view (Harry's tip).

Half-Day trip to Berkeley - the city of the University of California is also famous for its "Gourmet Ghetto" in Shattuck Avenue (Chez Panisse initiated the California cuisine 40 years ago).

Harry's favorite spots in San Francisco: SPQR restaurant, Gitane, Flower & Water, L folie bar, Limon Rotisserie, Tadichd grill & Bar Tartines (Mission)




From San Francisco you can drive Northeast to Lake Tahoe and Napa Valley or start going South (Palo Alto).

South Lake Tahoe
(1 to 5 nights, depending if you ski)
  An amazing mountain in front of a huge lake. If you are planning to  ski / snowboard stay at Marriott (in the gondola area). If not, the brand new Base Camp Hotel is an excellent choice (Carolina Fernandes's tip)! I recommend having lunch at Kalani's (krispy kalamari salad) or Riva Grill and having dinner at Edgewood or Chart House (king crab).


Napa Valley
(3 nights, but if you are a wine enthusiast you should spend more time…)
I highly recommend to stay in Yountville, at Bardessono. This tiny city has 3 Thomas Keller's restaurants that are walking-distance from this amazing hotel (Bouchon Bistro, The French Laundry and Ad Hoc).
  Wineries - I'm not a wine person (I much prefer beer…) so I picked just 3:
      - Robert Mondavi Winery: he is the person that changed the wine labeling (varietally rather than generically). The tour is ok, but the building has great Beniamino Bufano's sculptures.
       - Rubicon Estate Winery: Francis Ford Coppola owns it. It has a cute museum for cinema lovers.
        - Beringer Vineyards: the best tour among these 3.
Another restaurants I recommend are Lucy (at Bardessono), The Culinary Institute of America's restaurant and Mustard's Grill.
And please check the weather forecast and book a memorable balloon flight!






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Palo Alto
Heading south from San Francisco (leave early in the morning), this city is a must-see, really charming. Known as the home of headquarters of lots of Silicon Valley high-technology companies (Google, Facebook, Apple, HP, Logitech…). It is next to Stanford University (gorgeous campus with a Rodin sculpture garden).


Santa Cruz
The place were the surf was introduced to California in 1885, and remains as a great spot for this sport! I didn't go but I've heard the city is nice. If you want to share some tips I appreciate it!

Monterey
Unfortunately I passed really quick… It has the biggest aquarium of the USA.
        17-mile Drive - A scenic route through the majestic Del Monte Forest and the famous Pebble Beach. It is a must-see. In the entrance you pay a fee and get a map. If possible have lunch at the Tap Room (tip: present your entrance receipt and they give you the refund).



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Carmel-by-the-sea
A posh small town with nice beaches. Clint Eastwood was the mayor between 1986 and 1989 and owns the Mission Ranch Hotel and Restaurant.
In your way, 16 miles south from Carmel, stop at the Hurricane Point to take pics of the Bixby Creek Bridge.
Big Sur
(1 night)
Amazing cliffs and scenic views! If possible stay at the Post Ranch Inn (or at least have dinner there).  One of the best hotels I've ever been to.
       A hidden road 4 miles North from Post Ranch Inn takes you to the gorgeous Pfeiffer Beach.
       Mc Way Falls - An awesome waterfall located in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. The beach is private but you can hike a trail that leads to the top of the mountain to have this view (Carol Grinberg's tip and picture).
       This segment between Big Sur and SLO is my favorite in all Highway 1 (along with the 17-mile drive). Really breathtaking.
      Between Big Sur and SLO there is the Hearst Castle - A castle originally built by the newspaper magnate and now a state reserve. Huge lines to get to the building. If you want to visit, plan ahead.
        And don't forget to stop at Morro Bay to take some pics.




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San Luis Obispo
A city for adventure! Hiking, biking, kayaking, surfing, ATV'ing (Marcela Simões's tip). Have lunch at the Novo Restaurant and if possible ask for a table by the creek (I had an amazing salmon bisque, chicken satay and Hoegaarden!).

Solvang
Cute city with lots of bakeries, restaurants, and merchants offering a taste of Denmark in California. Stop there for a coffee/tea in one of the city's bakeries.
        Between Solvang and Santa Barbara (via 154) there is the Cachuma Lake. There is a recreational area and vista point where you can park and enjoy!


Santa Barbara
(1 night)
I recommend to stay at the Spanish Garden Inn. This exclusive city (Oprah, Eddie Veder, Steven Spielberg, Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones… have properties here) has great restaurants. I had dinner at Bouchon (not the Thomas Keller's one) and recommend it.
     Butterfly Beach is the perfect spot to see celebrities such as Brad Pitt, Charlize Theron, Ellen DeGeneres, Rob Lowe, and so many others.
Santa Inez Valley is close to Santa Barbara, so if you enjoy wines it might be a nice option…
        Those parks I've mentioned are nearby as well.
        Leo Carrillo and Malibu Beaches are between Santa Barbara and Los Angeles.



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Los Angeles
(1 to 2 nights) - a more detailed post coming soon…
Nice hotels are Andaz , Mondrian, Beverly Hills Hotel.
At the Griffith Observatory you have panoramic views (arrive early), including the Hollywood sign, though this one is seen better at the Mulholland Drive.
A must see is the Getty Center, a complex that includes a museum, sculpture gardens and a great restaurant (Bon Apétit).
Next time I'll visit the Eames House, where Charles and Ray Eames lived, as I'm a big fan of their work.
Obvious (not mandatory at all…) attractions are: Rodeo Drive, Brighton Way, Sunset strip, Walk of fame, Kodak theater, Universal Studios, etc.
Other restaurants in LA: Koi, Melisse, Providence.
Santa Monica is the main beach of LA, famous for its iconic pier and boardwalk. Did you know this is the place where the Historic Route 66 ends (it starts in Chicago and crosses 9 states)?




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      Between LA and San Diego there are some nice beaches that worth a pull over: Newport, Dana Point, Encinitas.

San Diego
(2 nights)
       If you want to stay in the heart of the Gaslamp Quarter (= nightlife) choose The Keating (breakfast is served at the next door's Brick + Mortar - order the delicious waffles).
       An interesting option if you want to relax is to stay at the beach:
      La Jolla is located 15 minutes from San Diego downtown and has a nice village, with great shops and restaurants. Another option is the historical (since 1888!) Hotel Del Coronado, where many presidents and celebrities stayed.
     Attractions in San Diego include Beaches (La Jolla, Coronado, Mission), Zoo, Sea World, Parks (Balboa) and History (Spanish Mission, Old Town, Gaslamp Quarter). 




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      I hope you enjoy this trip as much as I did!
     Thank you Harry Lewis, Marcela Simões, Carolina Grinberg and Carolina Fernandes for the tips and pictures!